Modern Japanese Cuisine: Food, Power and National Identity   Katarzyna J. Cwiertka
                                                                                                                  Reaktion Books   2006


I read this in late July 2018.  Japan is a country which is obsessed with food, an obsession which is never more clearly shown than the way food features in so many television programs, as ’tarento’ (celebrities) ‘make a meal of’ yet more ramen, chicken karaage, beef…. However, the writer takes a much more insightful look at Japanese food by looking at how Japan’s food culture has developed since the Meiji Restoration. In particular, the writer describes how influences from abroad were steadily absorbed and adapted, with one channel being the use of Western food dishes in military catering, with the main idea being to build up height and weight. Ironically, in some ways, Western food, which was initially unfamiliar to all recruits, was easier to offer than staples such as miso soup, where tastes varied across the country.  However, as the book shows, initially, many vegetables which are now the key to everyday dishes, were not available, including onions and potatoes. Ichitaro Kanie, whose family farmed near Nagoya, is one pioneer who is introduced. Failing to successfully sell tomatoes, he moved to producing tomato puree for early Western restaurants. Towards the end of the book, the writer moves on to look at how Japanese food has in turn been internationalized and adapted, with one example being ‘Wagamama’, the popular chain in Britain. In many ways that is far from authentic, but, as the writer indicates, much which leads to a traditional image of ‘Japanese food’ is relatively modern, and a major change from its historical roots.

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